Pulling on the leash
Why it happens: The dog learned that pulling gets them where they want to go.
- Use a well-fitted Y-harness with a front clip.
- Stop moving the moment the leash tightens. Wait for slack.
- Reward every step at your side with a treat, then move on.
- Train in low-distraction places first (garden, quiet street).
Reactivity to other dogs
Why it happens: Fear or frustration builds up under threshold and explodes on sight.
- Increase distance until your dog can eat treats calmly.
- Mark and reward every calm look at the other dog (‘engage-disengage’).
- Avoid nose-to-nose greetings on-leash.
- Work with a certified force-free behaviourist for a tailored plan.
Resource guarding (food, toys, spots)
Why it happens: The dog is worried valuable items will be taken away.
- Never punish a growl — it is essential communication.
- Trade up: swap the guarded item for something better.
- Feed in a quiet spot; give bones only in the crate.
- Rebuild trust with counter-conditioning at a safe distance.
Jumping up on people
Why it happens: Jumping was accidentally rewarded with attention or eye contact.
- Turn your back the moment paws leave the floor.
- Reward the ‘four paws on the floor’ position generously.
- Ask visitors to ignore the dog until it sits.
- Practise a solid ‘go to your mat’ for the door.
Destructive chewing when alone
Why it happens: Boredom, under-stimulation or early-stage separation stress.
- Add a daily 30-min sniff walk and a food puzzle.
- Rotate 3–4 chew items; freeze stuffed Kongs.
- Build alone-time in tiny steps (30 s → 1 min → 5 min).
- Record the first 15 min of absences to spot real anxiety.